How Often Should You Shock Your Well
How Often Should You Shock Your Well

How Often Should You Shock Your Well

How Often Should You Shock Your Well – Use the charts below to find out how much chlorine bleach is needed to disinfect and clean certain amounts of water, such as 1,000 gallons. On this page, we will talk more about the ratio of chlorine to water and how much chlorine to put in drinking water.

If your tank is new, recently worked on, or known to be contaminated, perform a “shock chlorination” of 50-100 parts per million (PPM) and let sit for 12-24 hours.

How Often Should You Shock Your Well

After adding chlorine, the chlorine level starts to decrease. Chlorine wears off and breaks down depending on chlorine demand (your water chemistry and conditions) and water temperature.

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Test the residual chlorine after 24 hours and if the chlorine level is 10 PPM or less, repeat the procedure. If you are storing water and want to maintain a chlorine residual for safety, use a maintenance residual of 1-2 PPM.

Shock chlorination adds chlorine until the residual reaches 50-100 ppm. This is recommended if you have a new holding tank or are working on a well, or if you discover that the holding tank is contaminated with coliform bacteria.

Shock chlorination renders the water undrinkable until the chlorine level drops below 2-4 PPM, which usually occurs within a few days to a few weeks depending on temperature and water chemistry.

Don’t want to use shock chlorination? It is best to use an automatic chlorinator if you want to automatically maintain residual chlorine to keep your tank disinfected when fresh water flows into it.

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However, if your tank is intended for long-term storage or you want to periodically chlorinate, refer to the 1-2 PPM addition chart.

A chlorine residual of 1 to 2 PPM is recommended if you intend to maintain residual chlorine in your drinking water. Follow these steps and refer to the chart below to find out how much chlorine bleach to add to achieve these levels.

Clean the storage tank or reservoir. Remove debris and clean or hose off dirt or other deposits or interior surfaces. If possible, pump to remove suspended solids or foreign matter from the water.

If possible, clean the interior surfaces of the storage room or container with a strong chlorine solution containing ½ gallon of household bleach or ¼ gallon of pool chlorine for every 5 gallons of water.

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Inspect the storage tank for leaks or vents around cracks, lids, or vents. Ensure that insects, rodents and other debris do not enter the tank during normal operation of the tank and water system by ensuring that the lid closes tightly and that all vents are properly screened.

Use the chart below to determine how much chlorine bleach to add to the water tank to bring the chlorine level in the tank to the desired level.

For example, you can use the chart below to find out how much bleach is needed to disinfect 1,000 gallons of water and what chlorine to water ratio is needed to treat the water.

NOTE. If you need to use the tank water immediately after chlorination, consider adding enough chlorine to bring the level to 5 or 10 ppm and let it sit for 12 hours or longer. Use the 50-100 PPM chart only when shock chlorinating new or heavily contaminated tanks. Storage Tanks: Disinfection with Liquid Household Bleach (5.25% Sodium Hypochlorite) Step 4: Use Bleach

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Approx. parts per million of residual chlorine obtained by adding 5% chlorine bleach in the quantities given below. Numbers are rounded for ease of measurement. 1 tablespoon = 0.5 oz.

If using a higher chlorine level, drain and rinse the tank. Do not pour residual chlorine into drains that lead to septic tanks, and avoid entering streams, rivers, or lakes.

Be careful with the steel tank as it can corrode over time and leak after cleaning the tank.

A general rule of thumb for shock chlorination and disinfection of a storage tank is to mix odorless NSF-approved household bleach (5.25% chlorine) into the reservoir at a ratio of 1 gallon of bleach for every 1,000 gallons of water (ie, 1 liter for every 250 gallons of water).

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This results in a chlorine concentration of 50 ppm, much higher than the 0.5-2.0 PPM found in treated city water, and renders the water unfit for drinking until the residual falls below 4.0 PPM.

For storage tanks or cisterns fed with well water: add bleach directly to the tank at the same time you disinfect the well. Allow the storage tank to flow into the distribution system.

After sitting for 12-24 hours, drain the storage tank via a drain valve or distribution system.

Storage tanks: Disinfection with dry 1-gram chlorine pellets or chlorine pellets. Do not use pool bleach. Use calcium hypochlorite for drinking water.

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In addition to knowing how much chlorine to put in your water tank, you also need to decide what type of chlorine to use.

The worst option is to use Clorox household laundry bleach. Besides chlorine, it also contains unwanted chemicals. Laundry bleach will work and disinfect your tank, so that’s an option. Be sure to use unscented ones.

The best chlorine bleach that is certified for drinking water. If you can’t find NSF-certified liquid bleach, you can use dry NSF granules or powdered bleach.

Another good option is to use liquid pool chlorine, which is unadulterated sodium hypochlorite (as opposed to laundry bleach). You can usually find liquid pool chlorine at Home Depot or Lowe’s or hardware stores, as well as spa and pool supply companies. Pool chlorine is liquid 10-12% sodium hypochlorite, which means it has 10-12% chlorine.

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Easy-to-use, NSF-certified chlorine bleach is additive-free chlorine granules. This type is calcium hypochlorite and can be mixed with warm water and placed in a storage tank.

Do not use dry powdered pool chlorine, sometimes called Tri-Chlor, in your holding tank or well water.

Once you’ve figured out how much chlorine to put in the water tank, you might want to have a chlorine test kit to find out the residual chlorine after chlorinating the storage tank.

There are two main types of chlorine test kits for home use, which are liquid drops (which use reagents dropped into a test tube) and test strips.

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A standard low-range chlorine test kit uses orthotolidine, which turns yellow in the presence of chlorine, so it’s easy to use.

Test strips are easier to use, but a low range reagent type may work better in our experience.

You may also want a High Range Kit if you are chlorinating a tank with high chlorine levels above 5 PPM.

The low range kit allows you to check chlorine levels when adding chlorine to maintain a low residual level or when you want to know when the water is safe to use.

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According to the CDC and the World Health Organization and health authorities, a chlorine level of up to 4 milligrams per liter (mg/l or 4 parts per million (ppm)) is considered safe for drinking water. Adverse health effects are unlikely to occur at this level.

There are studies that show that showering and drinking chlorinated water your whole life can increase your chance of getting some cancers, but adding chlorine to kill bacteria in the tank and then letting the water out has no health effects.

In municipal treatment plants, chlorination is the process of adding chlorine to drinking water to kill parasites, bacteria and viruses. Various processes can be used to achieve safe levels of chlorine in drinking water. Using or drinking water with a low chlorine content does not cause adverse health effects and protects against waterborne disease outbreaks.

Water comes from a variety of sources, such as lakes and wells, which may be contaminated with microbes that can make people sick. Microbes can also contaminate water as it travels through miles of pipelines to reach a community. To prevent microbial contamination, water companies add chlorine to keep the water safe.

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Liquid bleach and chlorine powders and granules can be dangerous if you don’t take some common sense precautions. Use gloves and goggles and avoid inhaling chlorine fumes or coming into contact with chlorine on your skin.

You may wonder if peroxide can be used instead of chlorine to clean the tank, but it won’t work.

You can use hydrogen peroxide on cuts or scrapes to kill germs, but it is not a good disinfectant for drinking water. Hydrogen peroxide is rarely used as an independent purification process in drinking water. It is a very weak biocide compared to chlorine or ozone.

It has not been approved by the EPA and other health agencies as a stand-alone disinfection procedure. Hydrogen peroxide is great for removing odors and improving the taste of water, but it is not useful for disinfecting containers. The word shock can describe several different situations. Medical shock occurs when body cells

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